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R53 Single Gauge Kit Boost

THANK YOUfor purchasing the R53 Single Gauge Kit (BOOST) from CravenSpeed. This product is made from the highest grade materials, and is guaranteed to be free from defects.

You can buy our CravenSpeed FlexPod Bracket Z for MINI Gen 1 here

Parts Included:

  • 1x Boost Gauge
  • 1x Gauge Cup
  • 1x Bracket Z
  • 2x Plastite Screws
  • 2x Small Spacers
  • 2x Washers
  • 2x ¼-20 Bolts
  • 1x Large Spacer
  • 1x Plastic Plug
  • 1x Back Plate (Crescent-Shaped)
  • 3x Foam Rubber Pads
  • 3x Posi-Tap Connectors
  • 2ft Orange Wire
  • 2ft Purple Wire
  • 2ft Red Wire
  • 4ft Black Wire
  • 6ft Green Wire

Tools Required:

  • T-25 Torx Driver
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • 10mm Socket
  • Socket and Adjustable Wrench
  • Zip Ties
  • Awl (or similar sharp implement))
  • 3/16" Allen Wrench
  • Wire Stripper
  • Utility Knife or Scissors

Procedure

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NOTE: The following instructions show the installation onto a "Chrono Package" equipped MINI, however the procedure is the same for MINIs equipped with the single tach dial gauge.

***PLEASE NOTE*** Some of this procedure has you poking around the engine compartment, so it is a good idea to allow the engine to cool off a bit first before diving in. Another good habit to have while working around the electrical system of your MINI is disconnecting the negative (-) battery terminal, so grab your trusty 10mm socket and do this now. For your Gen1 MINI, the battery will be located in the boot--hatch--under the floor partition.

  1. Utilizing a T-25 Torx driver, remove the factory mounting screws from behind tach/speedometer unit. Press the release button on the green wiring harness to detach it from the back of the unit and lift it off the steering column. Keep the factory T-25 Torx screws as you'll need them for the re-installation.

  2. Using your Philips head screwdriver, remove the two factory screws from the back of the tachometer or the two from the back of the speedometer--If you have the Chrono Package and want to mount your device on that side.

  3. Set the two plastic spacers into the holes where the screws were and secure the mounting bracket with the included washers and Plastite screws. Do not over-tighten and risk stripping out the threads of the housing.

  4. Re-connect the wiring harness onto the back of the gauge unit and set it onto the steering column. Re-install and tighten the factory T-25 Torx screws to finish the job.

  5. Attach gauge cup to mounting hole in  bracket using a ¼-20 Bolt and adjust to desired height. Use the large spacer if desired and finish the gauge cup installation by fitting the included plastic plug to hide the mounting screw.

  6. Insert gauge, allowing the studs on the back to fit through the holes in the crescent-shaped back plate. Orient the opening of the back plate so that your gauge wires may be plugged in directly. Tighten the thumb nuts included with your gauge onto the gauge studs. You may choose to trim their length if you feel they are too long. Measure twice, cut once!

  7. For gauges that do not have mounting studs, you may use one of the included foam rubber pads to create a resistance fit between the gauge and the cup. Begin by applying one the foam rubber pads to the inside mid-point of the gauge cup and slowly, but firmly insert your gauge. If it is not tight enough, add a second or third foam rubber pad.

  8. Raise the bonnet--hood--and locate the hose port on passenger side of the intake manifold underneath the intercooler. This can be done without removing the intercooler, but the process is a bit easier with it out of the way. Remove the screws on the intercooler clamps, and slide the boots to the side. (NOTE: Some force is required to remove and reinstall the intercooler)

  9. Pull off the rubber hose from the passenger side of the intake manifold and cut a short length from it--approx 3".

  10. Connect one barbed end of the 'T' fitting included with your Marshall Gauge parts to the OEM rubber hose, one end to the short 3" piece of OEM hose you just created, and the last end to the length of boost/vacuum line that came in the box with your gauge.

  11. Reconnect the 3" length of OEM hose back onto the intake manifold port.

  12. Route the boost/vacuum line under the intercooler toward the intake system/airbox.

  13. Locate the boost/vacuum sender unit included with your gauge and mount it to an acceptable point by the intake system/airbox area utilizing some zip-ties.

  14. Trim the boost/vacuum line and push it onto the barbed fitting of the boost/vacuum sender unit.

  15. Attach your wires to the boost/vacuum sender unit and strategically route them along existing OEM wires/hoses/cables until you end up at the firewall plug behind the brake booster. Zip-tie the wires into place as you go so that they stay away from any hot or rotating components in the engine compartment.

  16. Utilize a tool such as an awl to poke a hole through the rubber firewall plug, being mindful not to damage anything in the interior side behind the dashboard.

  17. Back inside the car, the firewall entry point can be accessed by dropping the drivers side lower dash panel. Place your fingers in the gap under steering column and pull/push down. This will unsnap the lower panel along the top and it will pivot down on hinges.

  18. Utilize a flashlight and look up into the dash to locate where the wires are coming into the vehicle. Carefully pull the wires through, being mindful of leaving a bit of slack in them. It helps to have an assistant let you know when you’ve pulled enough of the wires through.

  19. Proceed with the wiring installation instructions enclosed with your gauges. When you’ve finished with the gauges, reconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and check their functionality. If you’re good to go, tidy up and take it for a spin! You’re done!

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